Flavio Roddolo
There are winemakers you only hear about. I am not talking about big-name producers or “investment wineries” in existence for the cult market. No. I am speaking of real local legends whispered in reverent tones at trade tastings, wine bars and among winemakers. These artists often work alone and uncompromisingly, producing with passion to an audience of one. The results of this zealotry are impossible to reproduce and hard to source, yet when experienced in the right circumstances, will mark you forever.
Flavio Roddolo is one of these producers. I first tasted his wines in NYC years ago and recall them being unlike any Langhe wine I’d tasted yet: resolved tannins, vibrant lift and complex aromas, yet totally drinkable and affordable today. How does he do it? Very little information is available about Flavio. Rumor has it he began at the tender age of 5 years old, walking the vines with his father in the Sant’Anna localita in southwest Barolo. Today, he manages 6 hectar of hillside vines called Bricco Appiano, located in the Monforte d’Alba commune of Barolo near the borders of hilly Dogliani. He used to sell only in demi-john (large glass vessels) presumably to local restaurants and merchants until the 90’s when Slow Food requested he begin estate bottling, which he did. He is an ultra-classicalist, employing long macerations on the skins, native yeast fermentation and aging in large cask called Botti. His vineyards surround the Bricco Appiano hill between 350-400m, nearing the roof of winemaking in Barolo. What sets Flavio apart? His love for the flavors and aromas of mature wines. He extends aging well beyond what the law requires, waiting patiently for his wines to whisper in his glass “I’m ready”. He makes a total of 20,000 bottles annually, a miniscule amount
Imagine my surprise to find an importer in LA connected to Flavio. I am very proud to offer the following wines in limited stock!
Flavio Roddolo 2017 Dolcetto d’Alba $47
Aged Dolcetto is an elusive find. In the patient hands of Flavio Roddolo, we gain a glimpse of Dolcetto’s vibrant fruit and chalky tannins aging gracefully over time. 2017 shows the traits of a warm vintage bursting with dark cherries, dried violets, savory spices, interwoven with earth and a little game. Yet it drinks with ease having lost none of its vibrant personality.
Flavio Roddolo 2012 Barbera d’Alba Superiore $56
Brawny, layered and evolved Barbera from an uncompromising winemaker in Barolo. Roddolo’s wines are austere in their youth promising real beauty down the road. Well, we have arrived with this 2012 Barbera d’Alba Superiore, a lovingly crafted red that unfolds fully in the decanter. Never rising above a medium body, this compact red shows ripe black cherries, sweet spices, exotic Aleppo pepper and hints of black tea.