Retail: 3/2/23
Giovanni Almondo 2021 Roero Arneis ‘Vigne Sparse’ Piemonte | $22.50
The Almondo family has been living in the Roero since the 14th century, with winemaking beginning in earnest around 1980. Since then, they have focused on pure varietal wines of pronounced aroma and complexity. The flagship, the ‘Bricco di Ciliegie’ comes from a section of vines cresting a hill called Vittori, endowed with a high level of limestone deposit. However, when I am looking for everyday excellence, the Vigne Sparse fits the bill perfectly. Considered an entry-level bottling, the “Sparse” is a bright, ultra-mineral driven and full of such exuberant acidity it almost dances off your tongue. The Almondo’s include a few hectars of old vines in this wine, giving it a much longer finish than expected. This is your oyster wine, your palate calibrator, and your pairing with sunshine and friends!
Ricci 2019 Bonarda ‘El Matt’ Piemonte | $18.00
The Ricci winery occupies on an old estate with vineyards planted as far back as 1929, known as Cascina San Leto in eastern Piemonte. Led by the current generation Daniele Ricci, a forward-thinking winemaker, they specialize in the native grapes of Colli Tortonesi. Along with plantings of the noble grape Timorasso, Daniele also farms a single hectar of Bonarda vines which he bottles under the name ‘El Matte’ or “the crazy one”. Close attention paid to the cultivation of grapes without the help of insecticides and herbicides and in natural fermentation in the cellar. The finished wine is aged in a mix of steel and acacia wood botti. The ‘El Matt’ is on of the best value for wine in the area, showing exuberant black fruit on the palate, smoke, cola, sweet-spice and firm acidity.
Caprili 2020 Rosso di Montalcino Toscana | $29.00
Location. The vines of Caprili were originally a part of the famous estate Pieve di Santa Restituta; which is now in the legendary hands of Angelo Gaja. Across the street, Gianfranco Soldera Case Basse, one of the top Cru’s of the area. And then there is little Caprili, only 20 hectar of vines and surrounded by giants. The wines in southwest Montalcino are a broad expression of Sangiovese, showcasing the warm climate and effects of the nearby Mediterranean. Winemaker Giacomo Bartolommei practices organic and natural winemaking, allowing the fermentation to begin spontaneously and then rearing in large eastern European barrels, old school indeed! All this adds up to a weighty and generously perfumed Rosso for the everyday.
Palari 2013 Faro ‘Rosso del Soprano’ Sicilia | $42.00
Located in the far northeastern corner of Sicily is Faro, one of Italy’s smallest winemaking areas. Often shadowed by mount Etna’s growing reputation, few winemakers work the soils of this unique coastal appellation. In fact, the vineyards are just 1.5 kilometers from the ocean, with steep terraced slopes tended for decades by Salvatore’s grandfather and a few others. He farms vines at near 600 meters and works with local varieties I have never heard of: Acitana, Galatena, Jacché, Core ’e Palumba… what?! His wines showcase the smooth earthiness of Mount Etna with a distinct rustic mouthfeel, no doubt from its proximity to the bay of Messina. Salvatore prefers to release wines when he feels they are ready, making this 2013 the most current vintage. The Rosso del Soprano is a meditation on elegance matched with the wild spice and salinity of the Sicilian coast. While not a heavy or big wine, its evolution from beginning to end will fill out the glass beautifully.
Istine 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva ‘Levigne’ Toscana | $64.00
Istine Chianti Classico are gorgeous high altitude Sangiovese, unvarnished by heavy oak and simply elegant. Born from a family of vineyard managers and developers in Toscana, the estate is quite young. The story begins with daughter Angela graduating from Oenology school and returning home to tend her family’s vines. 2009 was the inaugural vintage with only 250 cases and since then Istine has been on the upward rise. They own 25 hectar of vines in Radda, Gaiole and Castellina, all certified organic since 2016. Winemaking follows the traditional method of long fermentations on the skins and aging in large cask. The ‘Levigne’ is a selection of the very best parcels from their holdings and aged an extended period of time. The ’18 greets with a youthful exuberance on the palate, all fine-grain tannins and firm dark fruit. Once it settles in the decanter, another gear is revealed, with developing fruit and delicate aromas like wildflowers and crushed minerals. Only a few bottles.