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Roeno 2019 Riesling ‘Praecipuus’ Trentino Alto-Adige | $23.5
I never thought I would carry an Italian Riesling at Bottivino, but here we are. Why? I gravitate towards the indigenous grapes of Italy and, for me, Riesling from the Mosel in Germany is a religious experience. So, imagine my surprise last April when attending an industry event in Italy, I encountered a Riesling of exceptional quality. It turned out to be one of my favorite producers in the northeastern area of Trentino Alto-Adige, Roeno. Established by Rolando Fugatti in the 1960s, Roeno is in the “Terra dei Forti”, an area within a valley near the Veneto known as “Valdadige”. They produce mono-varietal wines from an area sandwiched between the Dolomites and the Adige river. This Riesling is fully fermented dry (trocken) and is like a Samurai sword across the palate: very crisp and dry, with fresh floral aroma, petrol and a touch of salinity to finish. Simply perfect as an aperitivo on a warm sunny afternoon.
Castelvecchio 2021 Vitovska Carso Friuli | $24.5
One of Friuli’s gems, Vitovska is like sunshine in the glass! There is something luminescent about its expression in the glass, showing crisp tropical and stone fruits laced with eucalyptus and lemongrass. Castelvecchio is located in Carso, a rugged peninsula along the Mediterranean coast of Friuli. The Terraneo family has been working these vines since 2013, producing a handful of mono-varietal wines using native grapes and internationals. The style of winemaking is hands-off, preferring the natural aroma and flavors of Vitovska to shine through. They use concrete during the fermentation and aging process, allowing the wine to be shaped a bit before spending time on the fine sediment (sur lee) giving creaminess and added complexity. An excellent wine as the warm weather gives way to the Fall.
Palmento Costanzo 2020 Etna Rosso ‘Mofete’ Sicilia | $26
Located in the village of Passopiciaro on the north side of Mount Etna is Palmento Costanza, a family-run operation producing structured wines from native grapes. Mimmo and his wife Valeria Costanzo purchased vines in early 2000 in the celebrated Santo Spirito appellation. Despite the size and reach of the family’s construction company, one of the biggest in Italy, their wines are treated with the attention and care of a small family-owned winery. The Etna Rosso ‘Mofete’ carry a certain vibrancy in fruit expression, which is mostly taunt red cherry and plum with notes of underbrush, dry-rock minerality and the warm earthiness found only in Etna. Not as structured as the wines of Girolamo Russo or soft as Franchetti, Costanza is somewhere in between, making for an excellent food pairing wine.
Balgera 2015 Valtellina Superiore “Valgella” Lombardia | $29
Travel outside of Barolo and into the foothills of the Alps, and Nebbiolo becomes its most aromatic and focused self. Head across the border into Lombardia and a sliver of hidden land emerges, where Nebbiolo goes by its local name: Chiavennasca. Grown on poor soils along steep ancient terraced vineyards, the wines of Valtellina are classified by their village location and altitude of vines. The prevailing style of Valtellina is to focus on the bright acidity and vibrant aromas of Nebbiolo. Enter Balgera, a diamond in the ruff. The family has been making wines since the late 1800’s, with 4th generation Paolo continuing the tradition of extended maceration and aging in large barrel. What makes this family distinct, and quite frankly special, is devotion to aging and releasing wines much later than their peers. This means each vintage is assessed throughout the aging process and released onto the market when Balgera feels it is ready, pushing the elusive drinking window for Nebbiolo within our grasp. This 2015 from the village of Valgella is a smooth, integrated and complex medium-bodied red. The fruit is earthy and smooth, with aromas reminding me after the rain in the mountians. Give it plenty of time to open in a wide-bodied decanter.