Arrivals!

I’ve been exploring central Italy as of late, particularly around sub-regions like Montalcino in Toscana and Montefalco in Umbria. Big guns indeed. As the here weather turns cool, our tastes compensate by seeking out a little weight and spice in the glass. Here are a few wines from the very heart of central Italy to meet this moment.

First, we head briefly to the Veneto for a brisk aperitif-style white from the ubiquitous Moscato grape. Most are made as a sweet bubbly; save for this gem I haven’t seen since my NYC sommelier days. Vignalta 2024 Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio 'Sirio' ($23) was my go-to wine for calibrating palates before the meal, or as a pairing with fin fish crudo (sashimi). So nice to have it on the list!

Back to central Italy! We begin in southern Montalcino with Piancornello 2024 Rosso di Montalcino ($35), an expansive rosso that reflects the warm climate of southern Montalcino. Reds from this area have a riper expression and a noticeable saline note from the nearby Mediterranean. We then head north to vineyards surrounding the hilltop village of Montalcino. These are where the most prestigious estates are found, including one of Montalcino’s quiet luminaries, Enzo Tiezzi. I say “quiet” because no-one really knows about him. Good for us! Tiezzi 2017 Brunello di Montalcino ‘Poggio Cerrino’ ($75) is a juicy and upfront Brunello, who’s expression feels more ‘Tuscan-farmhouse’ than the polished ‘Maserati-in-the-driveway’ wines. This means edges, equal earth and fruit evolution and a finish that pairs really well with food. 

Now, to the Montefalco area of central Umbria, the region’s most prestigious village for wine. Sagrantino is Umbria’s gift to the world of Italian wine, with traits similar to Sangiovese yet with more fruit, and some seriously robust tannins. Others really embrace this grapes rusticity, but not Milziade Antano. They treat these wines like Brunello or Barolo, with native yeast fermentation, extended contact on the skins and aging in large cask. The Milziade Antano 2021 Montefalco Rosso ($29) has an upfront fruit and spice expression that finishes surprisingly light on its feet. The rosso makes for a versatile glass, recently enjoyed by longtime clients celebrating their anniversary midweek with a plate of pasta pomodoro, yeah! Milziade Antano 2021 Sagrantino di Montefalco ($68) takes it to another level. The fruit is less upfront and shows a brooding and compact mouthfeel that relaxes after time in the decanter. There is a lot of elegance to match persistent tannins in the glass. This is a meditazione wine, meant to be decanted and sipped over the course of an evening while contemplating existence. Vai!